G'day SA actives hunters, Now that the season has ended and the boots are drying I thought it might be time to put together a guide for the new hunters of next season. This guide covers the basics for hunting Gymnopilus purpuratus/dilepis, Psilocybe alutacea and Psilocybe Subaeruginosa which comprise the three principle active species occuring in South Australia. It's been over a decade since I started mushroom hunting and I still anticipate the upcoming season as much as I did my first though today it is mostly to view and photograph these beautiful mushrooms mainly for the thrill of the hunt. When I started hunting there was little in the way of advice as to where to find these species beyond that the grow from decaying wood and I spent countless hours walking about the forests without really knowing if I was there at the right time or place to find the ever elusive Psilocybe subaeruginosa. At this time P.alutacea and Gymnopilus purpuratus were not even in the picture. No doubt as the years go by and experience hours accumulate it's become much easier to locate all three of these species and in this guide I will give back some of what I've learned to date. In addition to reading through this guide please study the pictures carefully as photo's are by far the best help in identifying the right habitat and the target species. Gymnopilus purpuratus/dilepis This species is the mildest of our three common active species in terms of potency. While it does not contain as much Psilocybin/Psilocin as P.subaeruginosa or P.alutacea it does contain some unique active compounds. Keep in mind that although not listed as a toxic species the effects of these compounds are not well studied and it's very much an experimental species. Anyone deciding to ingest this species does so at their own risk. I recommend utilizing this awesome resource that is the shroomery to make an educated decision. There are a number of anecdotal trip reports as well as literature on additional compounds and potential effects. Note: G.purpuratus and G.dilepis are both active Gymnopilus species which may occur in South Australia and cannot be differentiated from a macroscopic point of view. Even with microscopy this genus is tricky to identify. Since there are no practical means for the average hunter to tell the species apart and records of Gymnopilus finds in SA are always Identified as G.purpuratus I will assume the name for active gyms fitting the description in this guide. March-October Fruiting Temperature: 15-20c G.purpuratus is the earliest of our three known actives to fruit and can be found soon after the first edible mushrooms appear. Generally if there are mushrooms popping up in the pine forests there's a good chance G.purpuratus is around. Having said that it does prefer cooler temperatures than Gymnopilus junonius, an inactive species in Australia found fruiting as early as February. Throughout the Adelaide Hills in both pine plantations and native eucalyptus forests. Where it occurs in pine forests it will fruit readily from rotted stumps, branches and pine cones Unlike G.junonius which is scarce in eucalpytus forests, G.purpuratus is just as common in either setting and can be found fruiting from aged fallen eucalyptus trees. It is especially common fruiting from stumps, drift wood or dead trees near creek lines. Examples Since a number of Gymnopilus species occur in South Australia and many of them are inactive I will highlight the attributes unique to active gyms. 1. Bruising This species will exhibit blue/green bruising (blotches) either on the cap or stipe. While this is the most surefire to know you have an active Gymnopilus species not every specimen will display obvious bruising. A much more consistent place to check for bruising is not on the fruit body at all but rather the mycelium at the base or surrounding substrate. As you can see the specimen pictured below does not show any obvious sign of bruising. 2. Color Active gyms will typically have a red/purple cap covered in fibrils while the stipe may vary from yellow,red,purple. Examples Lookalikes G.junonius The abundant yellow mushroom is often found growing as dense caespitose colonies from tree stumps. It can be distinguished by the color, lack of bruising on the cap/aborts and its larger size (up to 400mm) G.allantopus Often found growing alongside G.purpuratus, this species is of similar proportions but lacks the purple/red coloration and fuzzy fibrils. It also has a pale white/cream color stipe and does not bruise blue/green. Tricholomopsis rutilans (Plums and Custard) Having a strikingly similar appearance of the cap color and texture the gills are crowded when compared to G.purpuratus along with a broader, robust stipe and no bruising evident. Furthermore the species can be distinguished by it's white spore print (Yellow/brown for Gymnopilus) This very beautiful species is the most recent addition to South Australia's actives scene. While it is far from uncommon it has likely gone undetected so long due to its diminutive size and close likeness to Deconica coprophila, and inactive dung lover. Fortunately despite it's small size (10-20mm) it can often be found fruiting very prolifically from manure. When to Hunt Fruiting Temperature: 15-20c Psilocybe alutacea falls in the middle of our three species in terms of seasonal starts. While it requires a cool, temperate climate it tends to fruit earlier than P.subaeruginosa meaning one could actively (see what I did there) pursue this species before the subs make their presence known. This species shares much of the same habitat as Psilocybe subaeruginosa however it is the substrate and quantity which determines where it will fruit most prolifically. Being a dung loving psilocybe you're most likely to encounter it growing from kangaroo dung. As kangaroos roam everywhere the sky's the limit when it comes to their whereabouts. I've found them in open exposed rocky scrub land, rain forest, paddocks, pine forests etc. They're a hardy species but they still do best in conducive conditions or places in which you'd expect to find strong, healthy mushrooms of any other species. Specimens from rocky, windswept areas with little ground will be very diminutive in stature and hardly worth your efforts. Those in a suitable sheltered micro climate such as a lush green paddock, near creek lines or a sheltered gully will grow tall, robust and healthy. Early in the season the same parameters for hunting subs apply. You're looking for green, damp areas which hold the morning dew. You can apply what you've learned about hunting subs to this species while expanding your horizons to grasslands and keeping your focus on areas kangaroos are most prominent. Examples of suitable habitat for P.alutacea Lots of roos are a good sign. This paddock is a bit too exposed to the elements for large flushes of P.alutacea A little further up a hillside there's a little more wind protection provided by reeds, ferns and nearby eucalyptus. Ideal micro climates. Another ideal micro climate in a damp gully between tall pines. The tall reeds here hold the dew through the day and kangaroo dung is present along the game trails. Patches of greenery seen in a gully very early on in the season. I found lots of specimens growing from roo dung near/between bracken ferns Pictures of P.alutacea You'll find they exhibit varying morphology just like Psilocybe subaeruginosa Tall Specimens from long grasses can grow to 150mm and below, from horse manure. An example of specimens fruiting in a windswept paddock. Most of these fruit bodies are no more than 20-30mm tall. Bruising Bruising with this species is most noticeable at the stipe base and mycelium. You may also observe bluing along the fibers under close inspection and occasionally the cap margin. Bruising, along with a purple/brown spore print is still the easiest way to separate this species from lookalikes. If it does not bruise distinctly blue Lookalikes Deconica coprophila Typically displaying a red cap and reddish tinge and or fibers along the stipe. Morphology can be otherwise identical. Unlike P.alutacea, it will not bruise blue. Pictured side by side shows the difference in coloration Stropharia semiglobata This species is easier to distinguish from P.alutacea. Unlike P.alutacea they possess a slimy stipe/cap and a tapered (widening) lower stipe. Coloration is typically a bright yellow but varies. As specimens begin to dry out it may more closely resemble P.alutacea. It will not bruise blue. Stropharia semiglobata is often found fruiting alongside P.alutacea which makes them a great indicator species. Psilocybe subaeruginosa Ranked high among the worlds most potent Psilocybin species, P.subaeruginosa or simply 'subs', are undoubtedly the most popular target among active mushroom hunters throughout southern Australia. It is likely most common of our three species as it fruits prolifically throughout the Mount Lofty Ranges. May-October Psilocybe subaeruginosa may be found growing a few weeks to the outlier of these estimations but will not be fruiting prolifically. Patches may produce as few as a single flush or multiple flushes throughout the season. For a complete beginner I'd suggest heading out on a few hikes in April/May and familiarizing yourself with suitable habitats and to get feel for things. take note of areas where there is significant fungal activity as it's often these micro climates that will produce first flushes when the active season is under way. Keeping tabs on the weather forecast is a good idea early on in the season. Past climate data will tell you a lot about where to go and when. There's always a lot of discussion as to which areas of the state are most productive at times of the season and there is no hard and fast rule. Mother nature is unpredictable. but here is some general advice based on my own experiences. Early season: Central hills (Meadows-Mount Lofty) - Lower temps early on due to high altitudes Late season: South (below Myponga) - Low altitude, milder temps The far North (North of Mount Lofty) is less predictable and can really go either way. Typically a late start and early finish would make sense here due to an all round milder climate Fruiting Conditions and Climate Data Night/day temps near or below 10/20 degrees for several weeks Bear in mind it's possible to find subs even in the complete absence of rain. A lot of beginners get hung up on rainfall and while rainfall does speed things along the dew point is just as important if not more so. Let's say observations state a certain area has been coming to within a few degrees of the dew point in recent weeks. This is a good sign as chances are there are shaded, wind protected pockets which will reach the dew point consistently. These micro climates hold the dew throughout the day allowing grasses and mosses to grow which in turn provide a perfect humid micro climate for the growth of mushrooms. Remember that humidity is only important at ground level as this is where mushrooms form. They could care less is the RH is below 30% 3 feet above the ground provided it is near 100% at the surface. Areas of greenery, places which hold the dew into the afternoon. Prime Time For those of you who have limited time, do not care to sniff out the early risers and simply wish to maximize their chances of returning home from a successful hunt I'd recommend heading out in June. Conditions are ideal at this time and most patches will have begun fruiting. Ideal habitat for a successful hunt Subs are a wood loving Psilocybe. They act as a primary/secondary decomposer of dead plant matter. They can be found growing in many settings from mulched garden beds to open bush land through to pine forests and even in open grasslands. In general, they're abundant fungi and you may well stumble upon them with little effort on your part. Having said that there's a difference between finding the odd sub here and there and finding a bountiful untouched patch that produces hundreds of subs in a single flush. The perfect habitat is what we're looking for. The following pictorial provides examples of the type of habitat you'll be looking for. There are a few common denominators in these pics. Short green grasses Subs grow most prolifically in areas which have not been strangled by ground cover. They can certainly be found growing in dense undergrowth it's just they often prefer a blanket of short grasses with a scattering of bracken and open eucalyptus forests. Often creeks and streams provide such a habitat. It's not uncommon to find subs growing along one side of a creek and then fail to find them on the opposite bank. The ground cover may dictate which side they'll grow on. I often find myself crossing over as the vegetation becomes too thick on one side. Online Research One of the most useful tools you can have in your arsenal to find potential patches is Google Earth/Maps. Put your time in here and you will be rewarded. GE will enable you to maximize your chances of success without having to walk blindly through the bush. To give you an idea of what to look for on google earth I've highlighted a couple of good indicators for subs in the following shots Red Circle = Ideal habitat. Areas of open woodland with large eucalypts , patches of bracken (light green patches) and short grasses. These areas are most idyllic Blue Circle = An area that is okay. Bracken grows dense along with surrounding vegetation. Still a good area for subs but will be less prolific in general. Below, some prime habitat. Notice the patches of bracken and open terrain in the red zone. The steep gully in the blue zone is well protected and will likely fruit early into the season. It is fairly overgrown,however and so won't fruit as prolifically. and series of gullies draining into one main gully. The main gully is the best place to search once the season is well underway. If it's devoid of subs chances are the surrounding gullies will be too. Remember early in the season these steep, overgrown and shady gullies are the first to fruit! Next is an example of an area that may look ideal to a beginner but is probably not worth the effort. You'll notice it's very overgrown. There is clearly dense bracken following down these gullies surrounded by dense scrub. There will be subs growing here but they're scattered, few and far between and you'll be bush bashing to get at them. A closer view of some prime habitat. Large old eucalyptus trees, patches of bracken fern and lots of open grass lands in between. I've found over the years that adopting a prospectors mentality helped in finding new patches of subs. During the golden era the old timers would search for areas of high mineralization for Gold. Loaming would be the preferred method. The same principle can be applied to hunting subs. Choose a spot just down from the intersection of a series of gullies and work your way back upstream. If you find a few subs growing along the creek follow the lead. Search the hill sides as well as the creek lines further up. Sometimes the habitat seems ideal and yet you find nothing. In this case chances are there will be few if any subs growing in the gullies upstream. The exception to this rule may be it's too early or late in the season. Often beginners will associate hunting for actives with pine forests, after all, they're shady and have plenty of wood debris, are usually not strangled by vegetation and host an abundance of beautiful fungi throughout. Some of my favorite patches grow in among the pines. There's a couple things you can do to maximize your chances of success when hunting pine forests. Consider this. Before the pine plantations, there was only native bush land which is now for a large part non existent and as the history of the landscape is often a make or break as to whether subs will occur here it can be difficult to find the common indicators of their native habitat. What you're looking for primarily is Bracken fern growing in and along the fringes of pine forests or neighboring farmland indicating this was once a lush eucalyptus forest. Pine forests bordering sandy scrub are often devoid of subs altogether. Water courses and gullies flowing through pine forests are also a good indicator as are older plantations. Identifying P.subaeruginosa varies enormously in morphology depending on habitat and genetics. The cap may span from as little as 10mm-130mm Examples 10mm 80mm+ Exhibiting many forms from conical, plane, umbonate, wavy and colors of yellow to orange or chocolate brown. Another attribute which effects the appearance of subs is that the cap is hygrophanous meaning it will change color dependent on conditions. Wind dried caps will appear opaque, dull and pale yellow/white while wet caps may appear striate and semi transparent. Example of dry cap The stipe always has a mottled wood grain appearance and texture though color may vary from bright white to off white/grey or brown/orange in aged/waterlogged specimens Example Spore print is purple/brown. The best way to identify subs given the morphological variation is by one common denominator and that is blue bruising. Psilocybe subaeruginosa will display distinctive bluing where damaged. Please don't confuse this reaction with blue colored mushrooms, however, which also exist. The bruising is simply the result of oxidation of the active alkaloids. This bruising may or may not be evident right away and pinching the cap or stem is often enough to see a reaction. If there is no sign of distinct blue bruising within an hour of picking DO NOT consume. In fact, DO NOT consume these mushrooms Here are some shots which clearly display the blue bruising typical of subs. and pictures of subs growing in situ. Lookalikes Galerina marginata This species is a dead ringer for P.subaeruginosa. It can sometimes be distinguished by an annulus (ring) on the upper stipe but this is not always present. While there are bluing Galerina elsewhere in the world the species in Australia will NOT bruise blue and will produce a rust orange spore print as opposed to purple/brown of P.subaeruginosa. Galerina are extremely toxic and potentially fatal if consumed! Hypholoma sp. Often found in the same habitat as subs and at times bearing a close resemblance. It will produce a purple/brown spore print. Hypholoma fasciculare Similar in appearance to Hypholoma sp but growing larger and often found in dense clusters. It may have a greenish hue especially in younger specimens. Remember subs bruise distinctive blue not green. Leratiomyces ceres A very similar looking species to subs which can serve as a good indicator species as it so often grows in the vicinity of subs. L.cere's are typically more red/orange in color than subs and will start to fruit a little earlier in the season. Picking Psilocybe subaeruginosa
When to Hunt
Identifying
Examples
As we overturn the branch we can see many small blue pin prick size knots nearby confirming an active species.
Note: While this guide may help to identify a target species ALWAYS post up an ID request of all and any species of mushroom you are unsure of BEFORE consuming. It is never worth the risk of consuming an unknown/uncertain and potentially deadly species of mushroom.
Psilocybe alutacea
Left specimen is Psilocybe alutacea, the two on the right are Deconica!
Examples
When to Hunt
My Observations
- Higher humidity, Rainfall
- Suitable micro climates in the way of steep gullies and vegetation cover
- higher rainfall often late in the season
- Colder than the far north but less prone to frost than the central hills
Visual Cues
An abundance of inactive fungi
Abundance of bracken fern
Scattered leaf litter and woody debris
Open woodlands
Nearby water sources
Did I mention bracken fern?
Subs and Gold
Soil samples would be taken and tested for placer gold. In this fashion the old timers would pan a creek in which several gullies would shed their mineral content in order to trace any placer gold back to the corresponding lead.
Pine Forests
Examples
It's up to you if you decide to pick and consume Psilocybe subaeruginosa and keeping in mind there is much debate in regards to harvesting Psilocybe subaeruginosa while preserving a thriving population for future harvests, I will put forth my ideas on the matter which may be taken with a grain of salt
Do not pick pins
A pin is a mushroom early in it's development which has not opened it's cap to reveal it's gills.
Mushrooms release spores from their gills located beneath their caps which in turn germinate and grow into a new virile mycelium colony producing healthy fruits in subsequent seasons.
If you pick pins you are effectively doing your part to kill off the patch.
Example
Notice the web like veil has yet to break away from the cap in the above picture.
Pick for your need, not your greed
Remember that even mature mushrooms still contain thousands of spores which they'd have otherwise deposited if you had not torn them from the ground. Taking a spore print is proof of this. The less you take, the stronger the patch will be in future seasons.
Scissors vs Plucking
Personally, I'm not fussed which method you employ here. I've seen sub mycelium uprooted by Echidnas, Kangaroos, Emus etc and it's never had a visibly negative impact on the patch.
One advantage that scissors offer is they allow you to weed out the mature specimens from the pins in densely clustered patches.
Pluck or pinch them at the base of the stems and do so in manner to minimize damage to the mycelial network.
Thanks for dropping by and I hope this guide helped some of you hunters find your first actives! Good luck and happy hunting
